Gandhakashala in Kerala, Gandasale in Karnataka, the rice is named a shali (winter-ripening) rice in older records, but a low-yielding, long-duration crop with a weak straw so it is prone to lodging. Even so, it is an incredibly special crop, recorded in temple inscriptions, which suggest that the presence of “gandha-śāḷi vana” along with lotus and lily ponds indicates the natural beauty of a region. . Golden-hued and beautifully scented, Gandasale is “visheshada akki,” meaning it was usually used for special occasions, and to make paramanna (payesa) for feasts. Along with many other aromatic rices, this one, too, is one from hilly terrain. In Kerala it was traditionally grown in the kundu vayals or the flat fields in the midst of valleys with forest soils, which are well-suited for cultivation of traditional aromatic varieties. The aroma of such rices as gandhakashala, jeeragashala, mullan kazhama, and others owes in part to relatively low temperatures (22-26C) during the flowering and dough stage of paddy development and to relatively higher altitudes, 1000m above sea-level.
Description
THE CULTURAL & ECOLOGICAL LIFE OF THIS RICE
Gandhakasala or Gandhasale grows in the cooler hillier and contiguous regions of the Western Ghat regions, today straddling northern Kerala (Wayanad) and western Karnataka (Malenadu). It is a 150 day crop and ideal for nancha or kharif season (May-June to Oct.-Nov.) according to Desi Rice Webinar 2021 by Sahaja Samruddha. This corresponds exactly to the Kerala almanac period “Thiruvathira Njattuvela” starting in June, which assures rain and sun in equal measure. This paddy requires specialized mills with rubber hullers to ensure minimal grain breakage.
A special rice in this region which is now separated by state boundaries, the grain is mentioned in historical and cultural sources of both Karnataka and Kerala.
Benjamin Lewis Rice, the Director of the Mysore Archaeological Department in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, identifies this rice as “Gandha-Sali” in Epigraphia Carnatica [Volume 8]. It was known to have been popular in the Malenadu Regions and been mentioned and glorified in the inscriptions of the Kalleshwara Temple in Soraba Taluq or the current Shimoga District, during the 14th century.
We are grateful to Prof. RVS Sundaram of the University of Mysore for helping us with some of the translations in Rice’s records, in which Nava-gandha-Śāḷi-vanas or nine Gandhashali paddy fields grace and bless villages alongside ponds filled with lotuses and lilies (Rice 1904: 61). The presence of gandha-śāḷi vana in such inscriptions signals the natural beauty of a region. More from the book:
“During the prosperous, calm and wise rule of King Harihara, son of Devaraya, the whole of the Karnataka province flourished, surpassing all the other regions with its landscape. In this prosperous Karnataka region, the Guttinad area had always stood out which comprised of eighteen Kampanas. Among these, the most popular was the Nagara-khanda, with Kuppatir the most distinguished part. Thanks to the settlement of the Bhavyas (Jains). This town was adorned with Chaityaliyas (prayer halls), beautiful lotus ponds, amusement gardens, and fields of fragrant Gandha-Sali rice, adding to its many attractions.”
In its 2010 GI-tag application for the Wayanadan Gandhakashala, the Wayanad Jilla Sugandha Nellulpadaka Karshaka Samithi noted the following (admittedly more modern) references:
- “Krishigeetha-Chollum Vayanayum,” an 18th c. “song” of traditional and primitive agriculture in Malayalakkara, describes the Pullava tribes in their festival rituals and songs praising their favorite rice varieties including Gandhakasala and several other known Kerala rices. [Krishigeetha-Chollum Vayanayum. 1999. Ed. T.T. Sreekumar, C. R. Rajagopalan and Vijayakumar Menon. Kanimangalam, Thrissur: Nattarivu Padana Kendram]
- The rice variety Gandhakasala is also mentioned the book Pulluvappatum Naagaaradhanayum [Pulluva songs and snake worship songs and studies], which tells of how the tribal singers go to the fields singing and receive rice panicles in return. [in M.V. Vishnu Nambuthiri, Pulluvappatum Naagaaradhanayum (Paatukalum Patanavum). 1977. National Book Stall, Kottayam. pp. 147-151]
- Note that both the above references appear to be to the song “Kattappattu.”
- Finally, there is mention about Gandakashala in Krishiyude Naattaivukal, in the “Vithupolipattu” song of seeds in the ritual “Kothaamooriyattom” in North Kerala done to pray for good yield of crops and dairy in the coming season [in Krishiyude Naattaivukal. 2004. Ed. V. K. Sreedharan D. C. Books, Kerala]
NUTRITIONAL AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES
- Gandhakashala or Gandasale is known and prized as an aromatic rice, and therefore not so much for its medicinal values.
CULINARY USES
- A very special rice, because of its unique texture and aroma.
- The grains are short, round, scented when soaked and also after cooked.
- The gelatinization temperature is high to intermediate indicating high to intermediate cooking time. [characterization obtained from the GI-tag application of the Wayanadan Gandhakashala]
- The rice is distinctly non-sticky [due to moderate amylose content]
- Ideal for any dish that can showcase the rice’s unique flavor: neichor [in Kerala], also payasams, and [in Karnataka] Sweet Pongal, Erodde (Steamed Turmeric Leaf Kadubus with Jaggery filling).
- Can also be used for savory preparations like Pulav, Biriyani.
- The flour is best used for Ottu Shyavige and Modakas.
- Neer dosas made from this rice are enjoyable due to the aroma again.
- Typically this rice adds a lot of sweet scent to whatever one makes from it.
WHO GROWS THIS RICE & WHERE CAN I BUY?
The sources that will likely have the best Gandhasale/Gandakashala:
- Mandya, Karnataka: Krishnappa (Farmer): 9902647906
- Mandya: Eshwar (Seller) – 8123827068
- Wayanad: Thirunelly Agri Producer Company/ Tapco [a farmer producer organization in Wayanad, Kerala]: +91 75599 15032
- Other Possible Sources
SOURCES & FURTHER READING
- Sahaja Samruddha. 2021. Desi Rice Webinar
- Rice, B.L. 1904. Epigraphia Carnatica: Inscriptions in the Shimoga District, Part 2 Volume 8. Mysore Government Central Press.
- Girigan, G., N. Anil Kumar* and V. Arivudai Nambi. 2004. “Vayals: a traditional classification of agricultural landscapes in Kerala.” LEISA India. December 2004.
- Mathew, Elsy. 2008. “A preliminary study of the biodiversity conservation practices of Wayanadan Chetty of Wayanad District, Kerala.” Puthurvayal: MS Swaminathan Research Foundation.
- Wayanad Jilla Sugandha Nellulpadaka Karshaka Samithi, Wayanad. 2010. Application for the Registration of a Geographical Indication in Part A of the Register, Section II (1) Rule 23(2)
- Other sources as listed above
Additional information
| Region of Origin | South |
|---|---|
| Grain Shape | medium |
| Grain Colour | Ivory |
| Fragrance | Strong aroma |
