Ghesh is the Gujarati take on Congee. Honestly it is a rather scaled down version of the elaborate rice porridges I have had in the Eastern part of the world where the population begin their days with a hearty breakfast of rice porridge: be it bubur ayam, juk or the Burmese byok, I was fed by my help. Most of these congee types are cooked in chicken or pork stock. In the predominantly vegetarian state of Gujarat ghesh, is usually slow cooked in chaash/thinned yogurt or cultured buttermilk. Also is it always made with the broken rice/kanki that was a by-product of hand-pounded rice.
In Gujarati, “ghesh” is an umbrella term for porridge-consistency food preparations made using millet or cereal grains. Minor millets like kodo, moraiyo, sama and cereal grains like broken maize or rice are used for making ghesh. Whatever the choice of grain, it is a food that sits at the top of the ‘easily digestible foods’ category. It is, therefore, considered ideal food for individuals with sensitive digestion. However, Gujarati households haven’t limited it to food for the weak or elderly; ghesh makes it on our plates as a soothing meal on days we wish to eat light!
Of all the grains used to make ghesh, kanki ni ghesh/broken rice ghesh remains a favorite among many. In the earlier times when native rice varieties were always hand-pounded, kanji/broken rice was a by-product of this process. Gujarati cuisine cleverly incorporates it in numerous ways, handvo and dhokla being the most popular.
Traditionally, ghesh is always slow-cooked in a thick-bottomed pan. Once the rice turns mushy chaash/thinned yogurt or cultured buttermilk is added to provide ghesh that mildly tangy taste. The recipe for this simple porridge varies in every household, and when it comes to ghesh, ‘less is more.’ Hence, the flavors are kept minimal. Some temper it in ghee-jeera, some add roasted sesame seeds, and others prefer curry leaves and chopped green chilies. In certain regions towards southern Gujarat, they serve mildly seasoned ghesh with freshly pounded chutney of coriander, green chillies, ginger-garlic and a dollop of ghee.
Interestingly, this porridge is also woven in our language:
- “Thaki ne dhili ghesh jeva thayi javu – transliterates as feeling sloppy and lethargic at the end of a busy day!”
- Ghesh ma Ghee – unexpected expenditure
- Ghesh jevu – loose and sloppy like ghesh
- Ghesh na handla fodva – to inflict atrocities on poor.
Selecting Rice
Any small-grained glutinous or rice with some stickiness works to make ghesh. However, kanki/broken rice of aromatic, glutinous rice is an ideal choice for the ability of broken grain to provide a creamy pudding-like texture. Here we have used Krishna Kamod. Ambamor may be a good choice as well.
Kanki ni Ghesh
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup Krishna kamod kanki/broken rice, small grained fragrant variety
- 4 cups water
- salt to taste
- Ghee to serve
- toasted sesame as final flourish, optional
To be pounded
- 1 cup coriander
- 2 green chilies
- 2-3 garlic cloves or handful of green garlic
- Salt
Instructions
- Wash and soak the broken rice/ kanki for 30 minutes.
- Cook it in mentioned amount of water. Add the salt (very little as the pounded pesto too shall have some salt).
- The grains should get a little mushy with the rice starch spilling out and gelling somewhat or to taste (I haven’t made a very mushy ghesh as I like the bite in my porridge).
- Just when you prepare to serve, pound the coriander, chilis and garlic.
- Pour the Ghesh in the bowl, add a dollop of pesto and drizzle some hot ghee.
- Sprinkle sesame seeds if you like
- Enjoy hot.
