We think that cooking rice is all about achieving the right texture—and it may be that, but it is not only that, says Sayantani Mahapatra. [With editing, photographic and other inputs by all of us at Shalikuta]
eating for texture and for nutrition | the many steps of cooking | four cooking methods |
cooking methods and nutrition | SOurces
চাল দেবে যত তত, জল দেবে তার তিন তত
ফুটুলে পরে ভাতে কাটি, তার পরে দেবে জালে ভাটি
Cāla dēbē yata tata, jala dēbē tāra tina tata phuṭulē parē bhātē kāṭi, tāra parē dēbē jālē bhāṭi
Add three times the water to rice, once it comes to a rolling boil, stir the pot and bring the heat to a low
Had she been alive, this probably would be my grandmother’s no-nonsense answer to this entire discussion of “how to cook rice.” But at Shalikuta we understand, when it comes to heritage rice varieties and its different traits, there is no one size that would fit all. Whether you prioritize taste, texture, appearance, mouthfeel, or nutrition, there’s far more to rice than what meets the eye or tantalizes the taste buds.
In our quest to define a perfect plate of rice we found Naisadhacarita of Sriharsa, where rice served at Nala and Damayanti’s wedding feast was described as something “which was unbroken and entire, with the grains distinct, and vapour playing over it, and retained its softness. it was excellent in taste, white, fine and fragrant” (XVI:68, p. 238). The description likely reflects the idealized general consensus on cooked rice quality in India, where most traditional cooking methods are designed to achieve this specific quality.
eating for texture & for nutrition
How we want to eat our rice is a personal choice but at the same time we must take into consideration the following concerns:
- Studies show that half of the world’s population depends on rice for their primary calorie intake. Because of the quantity consumed, it is the key source of energy, protein, iron, calcium, thiamine, riboflavin, and niacin, in most of the rice eating countries in Asia.
- Rice protein which ranks third among staple cereals after wheat and oats, is the most digestible of all cereal protein.
- At the same time these rice-eating developing countries also suffer from deficiencies in iron (causing anemia), zinc, and vitamin A.
- They also face chronic diseases such as Type II diabetes, cardiovascular conditions, and some cancers.
- Emerging evidence suggests that native rice could play a significant role in addressing both nutritional and health challenges in resource-limited settings. Not only do HYVs not exhibit the nutritional profiles of native varieties, the nutritional promise of native varieties makes solutions driven by bio-fortification especially in the form of GM “golden” rice superfluous.
Since the nutritional value of rice depends on the variety and cooking method, the next logical question is whether focusing solely on achieving a specific desired texture, the bar for which is set in the Naisadhacarita, is sufficient also for addressing nutritional needs.
Let us try to address this by analysing the effect of various cooking techniques on both the physical and nutritional quality of cooked rice.
The many steps of cooking
Cooking rice could be divided in many steps.
Rinsing: We need to remember that rice is an agricultural product and during the post-harvest processing and handling it collects dusts, grits, bits of husk and loose starch. Thus, rinsing the rice at least in 3-4 changes of water is highly recommended. If there are too many loose particles use your hands to gently rub them and wash till the water runs somewhat clear. Rinsing rice and getting rid of the excess starch results in visibly better appearance and fluffier grains.
Soaking: The common belief is that soaking rice, shortens cooking time and reduces monthly energy bills, but there is more to soaking than simple home economics. Rice like all other cereal grains, contain phytic acid. While phytic acid is an important protectant for the seed it is considered an anti-nutrient that impairs the absorption of essential micronutrients such as zinc, manganese, and magnesium in the human intestine. It is also the only antinutrient in rice that does not denature with heat. 80% of that phytate in rice is concentrated in the bran fraction, that is the embryo and aleurone layer (the layer that covers the inner starchy endosperm) of the kernel. This bran is removed during milling and polishing of “white” rice, resulting in less phytate content. In the process of removing phytate content by milling, however, we lose also the nutritional value of fibre-rich brown rice.
Soaking offers a route to having the best of both worlds. Many studies have shown that soaking the rice grain significantly reduces the phytate content, thereby improving the mineral bio-availability of rice. Pre-germinating or sprouting brown rice has a similar effect, resulting in much increased amount and availability of certain minerals such as zinc, magnesium, manganese, calcium etc. [cf. Shallan et al. 2010]
Climatic conditions here play a crucial role. The best results are achieved by soaking the grains 2 hours in 40C to denature most antinutrients (small mercies for living in temperate climate) whereas at 10C-20C or cooler climates, achieving the same results takes around 8 hours.
If you intend to consume more whole grain:
- Soaking is necessary to reduce the effects of anti-nutrients while retaining the nutritive value contained in the rice bran.
- Since soaking reduces cooking time, it also retains rice aromas that would otherwise be lost in longer cooking.
- The same general rule will apply to wild, black and hand-pounded rice, which retains some or most the bran in the form of reddish layer on it.
- In Indian climatic conditions, during summers we must soak whole grain rice at least for 3-4 hours and preferably overnight, extending the minimum soaking time to 8-10 hours in winter.
- We also need to discard the soaking liquid before cooking.
Measuring: the uncooked rice is very important if you intend to follow the absorption method. Because proportion of rice to water plays a crucial role in that. Use any small utensil to measure both the grain (before washing) and the water.
- Preferably for raw polished rice the general measurement is 1.5-2 parts water to rice.
- For parboiled or unmilled rice it can vary between 2.5-3.5 parts water to rice.
four cooking methods
The actual cooking methods could be segregated in 4 broad groups.
- Absorption Method
- Boiling and Draining (or the “pasta method”)
- Pressure cooking
- Steaming
1. Boiling and Draining
This is a traditional method for cooking rice in India, typically done on the (gas or firewood) stovetop. In this process, a large pot is filled with 6-10 times the volume of water compared to rice. Once the water boils, washed rice is added and then simmered gently. The rice is tested for doneness by pressing a grain between fingers. When the rice reaches the desired texture, the excess water is drained. This can be done by either pouring the rice into a colander or by covering the pot with a tight-fitting lid and tilting it to drain the water into another vessel. In our home, we support the pot against the wall to hold it in place for 15-20 minutes to ensure all excess liquid is removed. The long draining time also retains heat in the cooking vessel and allows the grains to fluff a little more.
Regardless of the rice type (short, long, raw, or parboiled), the draining method consistently produces fluffy and separate grains. By discarding the excess cooking liquid, one consumes about 14% less starch, which can be beneficial for individuals with “sugar” and lifestyle-related diseases. However, this method also results in the loss of some valuable water-soluble nutrients present in the rice (unless these are retained and drunk as “kanji”).
Until recently, I believed that the draining method was only applicable with an open pot (handi or dekchi). I then discovered that my aunt uses a pressure cooker for parboiled rice and drains the excess liquid. She adds 6-7 parts water to the rice in the pressure cooker, heats it until pressure builds up, and then removes it from the flame to allow the steam to dissipate. After removing the lid, she brings the rice back to a rapid boil on high heat and drains it in a colander. This approach reduces active cooking time and conserves energy, particularly for parboiled rice, which takes longer to cook than raw rice.
Parboiled rice-eating communities prefer this cooking technique. A study shows that aflatoxin moulds which often develops in parboiled rice (if the paddy drying is not perfectly controlled) can be successfully removed by the draining method: 82% traces of it are washed away. It is therefore not recommended to save and drink the kanji of parboiled rice, for this reason.
The boiling-draining method is also the preferred one to use if your intent is to make layered or mixed rices particularly with raw rice grains which are softer and more breakable than parboiled grains. Cooking time can be controlled very effectively, excess water removed, and the rice then left on a wide open plate to “dry” so that the grains harden slightly and remain separate—perfect for tempering and mixing with other spices.
Finally, the discarded water from the draining method continues to be, in traditional homes, the source of starch for stiffening cotton clothing, particularly saris and these days some linens. It may also be used to season newly acquired cast iron cooking pans, such as those used to make appams and paniyaarams.
2. Absorption Method
The absorption method focuses on controlling moisture through the effective use of steam. In this method, a proportionate amount of water is added to the cleaned and washed rice in a heavy-bottomed open-mouth pot. On medium heat, the water containing the rice grains is brought to a gentle boil. Then the pan is covered tightly and the rest of the cooking is done on minimally low heat. The cooking time will differ depending on the rice used, but it is highly recommended not to peek during this period as this will lead to moisture loss and undercooking of the rice. Around the end of the stipulated time, open the lid and check for the doneness of the rice. If necessary, add little more hot water and let it cook till you get the desired texture. Then let it rest in the pan for 10 minutes and then using a fork lightly fluff it to separate the grains.
For successful cooking, it is essential to know the correct water-to-rice ratio. While this ratio is straightforward for milled raw rice (2 parts water to 1 part rice), for folk rice with its varied milling and water absorption traits, the correct proportions have to be be achieved by trial and error.
A good starting point could be, for each cup of rice:
- 2 parts water for white raw rice
- 2.5 parts for white parboiled
- 3 cups for bold red rice, brown rice etc. [plus see the notes about soaking rice above]
- 3.5 cups for black rice [plus see the notes about soaking rice above]
Check the rice after 15 minutes and add more water if required. Doing that once will equip you to determine these factors accurately.
Alternatively, you can use the “knuckle method” to measure water. Level the rice at the bottom of the pan and add water until it reaches the first knuckle of your middle finger when you touch the surface of the rice.
The absorption method can be adapted to various energy sources. Here’s how to use different appliances:
- Microwave: take washed rice and required amount of boiling water in an oven safe (preferably borosilicate/ high-fire ceramic/ medium-fire stoneware) pot. cover the pot with oven proof material and on 700 microwave power cook it for 15 minutes (Raw long or short grain white rice) or more for different variety of rice. Let it stand in the pot for 10 minutes then fluff the rice using a fork or gently turn it with a spatula.
- Oven: Follow the same and then cook on in a preheated oven at 200C for 30 minutes. Check the doneness and if needed add more water. Resting and fluffing as mentioned.
- Rice Cooker: For an efficient absorption method, a rice cooker is ideal. Once you arrive at the correct water-to-rice ratio for the rice variety, simply add the ingredients to the removable metal pan of the cooker.
Close the lid and switch on the cooker. It will automatically adjust cooking time based on the water amount and switch to warm mode once the water is absorbed. For best results, fluff the rice immediately after cooking to enhance its texture and appearance.
These methods ensure versatile and convenient cooking options while achieving the desired rice texture. In the absorption method nutrient loss is less as the leachate adheres to the surface of the cooked rice as the water is absorbed by the rice starch.
Any type of rice could be cooked following the absorption method but the amount of water and cooking time will differ depending on the variety of grain chosen.
3. Steaming
This cooking technique is mostly used by communities who consume sticky rice or rice with more amylopectin and less amylose content. This method ensures that sticky rice retains its desirable texture and prevents it from becoming lumpy.
This needs a steaming set-up with two pots. The bottom pot holds water. The top pot, which fits tightly over the bottom pot has a perforated base. A cloth or natural porous material is placed on this base to prevent the rice from sticking.
Once the water comes to a boil, well-rinsed rice is placed in the top pot and covered tightly with a lid. After 15-20 minutes of steaming, rice is checked for doneness by pressing a grain between your fingers. Once the rice is cooked it is removed from the pot using the cloth and is transferred to a covered pan to keep it soft and moist.
4. Pressure cooking (Indian Style)
Cooking rice in pressure cooker is becoming more and more popular for its fuel and time-saving properties. it prepares food quickly by cooking it at a high temperature under significant pressure. This process increases the boiling point of water, allowing food to cook faster and more efficiently. The popularity of pressure-cooking has also been enhanced by government interventions: obtaining cooking gas cylinders was once as difficult as it was to get a landline phone connection, but the government agencies would distribute cooking stoves and pressure cookers along with new connections or periodically in between. Consumers had to pay nominally for these things, but it was the way the technologies were pushed into new homes.
For pressure-cooking, too, we need to know the amount of water to be added for different type of rice. The general thumb rule is
- 1.5 parts water to 1 part Basmati or any long or short grain white, raw and polished rice.
- 2.5 parts of water to parboiled rice, red or brown rice, varying across rice genotype and ageing of the grain.
For white, raw polished rice place the rinsed rice and water in the pan. Tighten the lid and cook it on high for between 1-4 whistles. Let the steam dissipate in itself. Open the lid and fluff the rice with a fork.
In pressure cooker, parboiled rice could be cooked following both the absorption and draining method.
- Absorption technique in pressure cooker: This is the “default” pressure cooker method.Add rinsed rice and 2-2.5 part of water to the pan. Cook on low till the whistle is abput to blow. Then increase the flame to medium and cook for 2-3 whistles. Let it cool down and then fluff the rice.
- Draining method in pressure cooker: Add rinsed rice and 5-6 times of water to the pan. Close the lid and cook it on high for two whistles. Then lower the flame to low and cook for 10 minutes. Switch off the gas and let it cool down. Open the lid and drain the rice.
One can cook parboiled rice or any wholegrain rice following this method efficiently. Many people often rely on pressure cooker to prepare pulao types dishes and other “one-pot” rice meals.
Cooking methods and nutrition
While the variety of rice cooking methods arises from its versatility, convenience and the need to achieve different textures and flavors for various cuisines, in the light of growing health problems we must not negate its nutritional aspect that affects the resultant responses in our body after ingestion of these cooked rice.
The cooking and eating quality of rice is influenced by both its physical and physicochemical traits.
Physical Traits: Visible characteristics such as length, width, translucency, color, age, and degree of milling (whiteness) affect the appearance of cooked rice. These traits are mainly determined by the rice variety (genotype) and post-harvest processing methods like milling and parboiling.
Physicochemical Properties: Beyond the nutrition-rich rice bran layers, the two most important physicochemical properties that are crucial in determining cooking and eating quality are gel consistency, which measures how much the cooked rice hardens when it cools and, the composition of amylose and amylopectin in the variety of rice.
Amylose and amylopectin are present in different proportion in different rice. Rice with higher amylose yields whiter and fluffier rice with high satiety level. It digests more slowly, leading to a gradual release of glucose into the bloodstream. Amylopectin-rich rices on the other hand spills starch in such a way that leads to rapid starch digestion, which could cause spikes in blood sugar levels, especially if the fiber and nutrient content of that rice is less.
The composition of these two starch fractions varies among genotypes. During cooking, heat and water break down starch molecules, leading to different gelatinization behaviors and producing different textures and appearance of cooked rice.
To understand how different cooking techniques affect the nutritional aspects of rice, it is also important to consider resistant starch. Resistant starch is a type of starch that resists digestion by enzymes in the small intestine. It plays a crucial role in managing lifestyle diseases by feeding the Gut Microbiome, Lowering Postprandial Glucose Spikes, improving Insulin Sensitivity, regulating Appetite. Understanding how cooking methods influence the levels of resistant starch in rice can provide insights into their impact on overall health. RS may already exist in rice, or may be produced in parboiling or in cooling and cold storage of cooked rice as the starch molecules realign themselves (cf. Zihang et al. 2023). Many diabetes patients with glucose monitors will attest to the effectiveness of refrigerating cooked rice for 24 hours in producing much flatter insulin spike after meals.
A 2003 study by Rashmi and Urooj examined the impact of four cooking methods, namely pressure cooking, boiling, steaming, and straining on starch fractions in six different types of rice with same amylose and protein content. It found that cooking techniques significantly affect nutritionally important starch fractions. Among all the rice varieties tested, steaming proved to be the best as it resulted in least amount of gelatinisation for all rice varieties, increased the amount of resistant starch in cooked rice, while lowering the rapidly available glucose (which spikes blood sugar after meals) for all varieties.
Given these discussions as a context, we hope that when selecting cooking methods for rice, we will not only consider taste, texture, and appearance but also give careful thought to its nutritional aspects and long-term effects on our health.
sources & further reading
- Handiqui, K.K., trans.1956. Naiṣadhacarita of Śrīharṣa. Deccan Monograph Series. Poona: Deccan College/Munshi Ram Manoharlal.
- Juliano, Bienvenido O. 1993. Rice in human nutrition. Rome: International Rice Research Institute Food And Agriculture Organization of the United Nations
- Rashmi, S & Urooj, Asna. (2003). Effect of processing on nutritionally important starch fraction in rice varieties. International journal of food sciences and nutrition. 54. 27-36.
- Shallan, Magdy & El-Beltagi, Hossam & M, Mona & Amira, Taghouti. (2010). Chemical Evaluation of Pre-germinated Brown Rice and Whole Grain Rice Bread. EJEAFChe. 9. 958-971.
- Zihang Cheng, Nannan Li a, Zhining Chen, Kaikai Li, Dongling Qiao, Siming Zhao, Binjia Zhang- Ingesting retrograded rice (Oryza sativa) starch relieves high-fat diet induced hyperlipidemia in mice by altering intestinal bacteria. Food Chemistry. Volume 426, 15 November 2023
