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 /  June 23, 2024

Jeeraga Samba

by Deepa Reddy
Jeeraga Samba
Jeeraga Samba - Image 2
Jeeraga Samba - Image 3
Jeeraga Samba - Image 4

Jeeraga samba, or the samba rice that resembles jeera seeds in size and very-slightly-elongated shape, is a very popular aromatic rice, the rice of choice for making meat biriyanis all over Tamil Nadu. Jeera-like rice seeds are almost a category unto themselves, including Wayanadan GI-tagged Jeerakashala, Koraput’s GI-tagged Kalajeera, UP’s Jeera battis and other jeera-like white, tiny, aromatic rices. In Tamil Nadu this rice is sometimes called vasanai jeeraga samba, or tulasi-vasanai jeeraga samba [scented or tulsi-scented jeera-like samba rice] owing to the different aromas that develop in different growing regions. This is a variety that needs fertile soil (doesn’t tolerate high chemical fertilizer applications) and lodges at the time of maturity is a problem–but fetches a premium price for its grain and aroma, and thus steals brazenly from both our purses and our hearts.

Scroll down for more details about this rice.

Categories: Kerala, Tamil Nadu, White Rice Tags: aromatic rice, fine-grained, jeera-like, kaima, kerala, Tamil Nadu
  • Description
  • Additional information

Description

THE CULTURAL & ECOLOGICAL LIFE OF THIS RICE

Never basmati, but the fine-grained aromatic jeeraga samba or seeraga samba has for long been the rice of choice for all signature Tamil Nadu biriyanis: Dindigul, Ambour and others. The taste and texture of these preparations owes in no small measure to the taste and cooking texture of this rice varietal. The cultivation of Jeeraga samba has traditionally been Uppiliyapuram panchayat union in Trichy district, parts of Thanjavur district, Vellapallam and Keevalur taluks in Nagapattinam district, and also the Kolli hills, Kumbakonam and Lalgudi [cf. Rajagopal 2016].

The immense popularity of jeeraga samba [from the mid-2010s onwards] for its grain size, aroma, and delicious taste have made it attractive to growers despite its lodging habits. As a result, the rice has often taken on different names in the different regions of its growth, as well as slightly different characteristics. It is therefore no longer clear if these can be considered unique landraces, or if they are ecotypes.

While speaking of how “Wayanadan kaima” rice (also fine-grained and aromatic) became increasingly difficult to procure in the mid-60s or thereabouts (possibly coinciding with the droughts that spurred the Green Revolution), the famed Malabar chef Abida Rasheed spoke to us [7/7/24] about how Muslim communities of Kerala’s Malabar Coast between Kannur and Kozhikode would source similarly fine-grained aromatic rices from Burdwan in Bengal–a region known for its Gobindo Bhog cultivation. The trade between Bengal and Kerala for such rices is likely why the Eastern India Rice Mill, producers of “high grade Gobindo Bhog Biriyani rice” start to refer to “Seeraga Samba gobindobhog rice,” collapsing two grains with similar profiles and uses into one. Local marketing and colloquial naming practices in this way make it challenging to distinguish fine-grained, aromatic varieties of rice which each have similar cooking qualities (“fluffing” and retaining bite).

Similarly, CIKS (2019) reports Jeeragasalae, an “Orissa vasanai jeeraga samba” and Seeraga samba as each distinct landraces with unique neutraceutical profiles, though the Tamil name retained suggests these might be ecotypes. There’s also mention of a Cuddalore seeraga samba, and a Karuppu (black) seeraga samba and even a jeeraga sanna [fine rice].

From an everyday-use cooking perspective, however, these differences may matter not or very little.

Other names/alternate spellings: Seeragasamba, Jeerakashala [when grown in Wayanad]; in Kerala this is at times referred to as simply “kaima” rice. 

NUTRITIONAL AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES

  • CIKS reports this rice to have a high protein content but this is a relative measure; most rice varieties surveyed in their work range from 8-10%, and jeeraga samba varieties stand at 9g/100g rice, give-or-take.
  • Youtubers and other media influencers speak of a number of health benefits, but none that we would verify from other sources, so we are not listing those for now.
  • It’s important to keep in mind that jeeraga samba is really best consumed as a polished, raw white rice. Whatever nutritional content may be present in its bran is likely to have been stripped–giving the rice its signature texture.

CULINARY USES

  • Jeeraga samba is the simplest rice to cook because it holds its shape and retains its bite even if overcooked slightly.
  • It makes for a beautiful table rice that needs nothing more than a spot of ghee and salt, and is used in Kerala to make nei-chor: literally, ghee-rice.
  • It is the generally favored rice for biriyanis all through the south.
  • Samba sadam is the traditional accompaniment to Chidambaram Gotsu–the traditional naivedyam at the incredible and important Thillai Natarajar temple in Chidambaram. Although “samba” can refer to any rice grown in the samba season, owing to its popularity these days jeeraga samba is the logical, preferred variety. The rice is prepared with black pepper, jeera and a little ghee: a minimalist’s dream.

WHO GROWS THIS RICE & WHERE CAN I BUY?

Jeeraga Samba is widely available on the market, but the very best we have had has always been from the Himakiran’s farm close to Chennai–Namma Farm grows and sells a jeeraga samba that is so delicious on its own, you won’t want to stop eating it. Contact information is below.

  1. Himakiran/Namma Farm [cultivates around 80 acres of agricultural land in Kommakambedu village in Thiruvallur district, and grows a few different rices]: +91 9962257249
  2. Other Possible Sources

SOURCES & FURTHER READING

  • CIKS, Traditional Rice Varieties of Tamil Nadu, 2019
  • Rajagopal, Ashwin, “Why I switched from basmati to Seeraga Samba rice,” Express Foodie, July 18 2016.
  • The Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity lists “Seeraga Samba Rice” in its Arc of Taste archives, which list a tiny fraction of India’s vast folk rice resources (13 in total, mostly from Meghalaya). It’s unclear why Jeeraga samba was chosen for inclusion in this list.

 

Additional information

Region of Origin

South

Grain Shape

small or fine

Grain Colour

White

Fragrance

Strong aroma

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