Often referred to as ‘small Basmati’ or ‘prince of rice,’ Kalo Nunia is a black-husked, highly aromatic, medium-slender (length 5.12 mm and breadth 1.94 mm) grain that grows in the Terai region of Northern West Bengal (districts of Coochbihar, Jalpaiguri, Alipurduar, Darjeeling and Kalimpong). The nomenclature for this rice is straight forward. The word ‘Kalo’ (means black in Bengali) refers to its stunning black husk and ‘Nunia’ is a local indigenous rice group. This aman or winter paddy is also known as ‘Kala Nenia,’ kala nina or kala nooniah. A good plate of rice in Bengal has always been compared with jasmine flower following a proverb that says, ‘জুঁই ফুলের মত ভাত ‘ (jui phuler moto bhat/ rice as white, fragrant and fluffy as Jasmine flower). Kalo Nunia with its unique aroma, non-sticky nature, and slender grain quality would fit that bill perfectly.
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Description
THE CULTURAL & ECOLOGICAL LIFE OF THIS RICE
The local Rajbanshi community of the Terai region had been cultivating this rice for hundreds of years and it is a crucial contributor to the cropping sequence in their agriculture. It also enjoys a prominent place in the rich culinary and cultural history of the local tribes and communities, for which it received geographical indication (GI) Tag in January 2024.
Kalo Nunia grows best in a well-drained sandy loam structure and like most other native Indica varieties necessitates reduced fertilizer use. It is resilient to various pests, diseases, and climatic fluctuations. Despite being an environmentally robust variety, the yield of this rice is comparatively low, for which many farmers chose HYVs when they were introduced in India from the 1960s onwards. Very few local communities kept growing it for its cultural significance and maintained the genetic purity of the seeds—even though this rice fetches a good price in the market for its taste and aroma.
The terai region of North Bengal is home to many aromatic fine rice varieties, yet Kalo Nunia enjoys a special status in its religious and cultural fabric and has always been considered ‘auspicious.’ For bhog offerings to the famous Madanmohan Temple, for the preparation of any special celebratory meal or seasonal sweet making, this has always been the choice of grain for the local people.
For its unique aroma, good cooking qualities, and excellent palatability it was considered fit even for kings. It is said that Maharaja Nripendra Narayan, who is known as the ‘maker of modern Cooch Behar’ loved having this as table rice. Likewise, the British Gazetteer W.W. Hunter lists this among 24 principle kinds of rice in the Darjilling tardi, with “(6) nenia, the best description of rice, known to Europeans as ‘table rice,’” nenia aman producing the finest grain. He records 6 further “minor varieties: dans nenia, kala nenia, tula panji [Tulapanji], hepsi, bansmati “a strong, sweet-scented grain,” and lakshmi bilds (1876: 92-3)
The residual of the crop, the hay or খড়/ khar, is used as animal fodder during dry winter months.
NUTRITIONAL AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES
- The amylose content of this rice is low at 18.1% , protein content is 7.3% with medium gelatinization temperature (moderate cooking time; alkali value 3.9)
CULINARY USES
- This rice is revered for its delicate aroma and cooking quality which is best preserved in its raw and polished form (atop chal, in Bengali).
- The aroma of such rice is at its peak when it is newly harvested. So, during the winter harvest festival, this unique feature is celebrated in a raw sweet preparation called ‘ Nabanno’. Where it is soaked, ground, and mixed with various other produce of the season and is offered to Goddess Dhanya Lakshmi.
- This rice cooks moderately quickly and retains shape once done. These features along with its aroma make it a natural choice for any Bengali-style traditional rice-based preparations such as gheebhat, polao, khichuri, fried rice, and Payes/ Kheer.
- Various traditional sweetmeats known as Pitha are also made out of this rice during winter.
- A special dish called Tehari, which is a meat-based pulao tastes best when cooked with this rice.
- The low amylose content of this rice makes it a good choice for table rice.
WHO GROWS THIS RICE & WHERE CAN I BUY?
- Sufal Bangla: Department of Agricultural Marketing; Govt. of West Bengal
- Dhenki: +91 82403 79055
- Other Possible Sources
SOURCES & FURTHER READING
- Hunter, W.W. 1876. A Statistical Account of Bengal, vol. X: Districts of Darjiling and Jalpaiguri, and state of Kuch Behar.
Additional information
Region of Origin | East |
---|---|
Grain Shape | medium |
Grain Colour | White |
Fragrance | Strong aroma |