Kanakchur is a slender, white, and aromatic rice that originated in the district of 24 Parganas in West Bengal. Now it is also grown in various other districts such as Nadia, Midnapore west, Bankura, and Bardhaman. ‘Kanakchur’ literally means ‘golden tipped’ (with ‘kanak’ meaning gold and ‘chur’ meaning tip or peak in Bengali), likely named for the strain’s high number of panicles per hill, or the group of stalks/tillers produced by a single plant. This rice has long been esteemed in Bengal’s intricate culinary traditions and rituals. It was first mentioned in an ancient text from the 11th century (or possibly the 13th century) called the Shunyapuran.
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Description
THE CULTURAL & ECOLOGICAL LIFE OF THIS RICE
Kanakchur is a Kharif season rice variety that thrives in the less saline lands of the Sundarbans region in coastal Bengal; although Haimanti or aman rice generally prefers swampy or moist soils, kanakchur has for long only been sown on dry and high lands (Hunter 1876: 209). It is a late-maturing variety, requiring about 143-150 days from sowing to harvest. While this strain has a relatively high number of panicles per hill, the seed quantity per panicle is quite low. The grains are protected by a reddish, awned hull, which shields them from animals.
বিন্নি ধানের খৈ আর মৌল ধানের মুড়ি
কনকচূড়ের মোয়ার জেনো নাইকো কোনো জুড়ি
“There is no comparison to popped rice made from Binni paddy, puffed rice from the Moul variety, or moa—a sweet treat made from puffed rice of the Kanakchur variety.”
This Bengali folk rhyme, which preserves the memory of traditional rice varieties for their distinctive qualities, describes moa—a sweet treat made from popped or puffed rice of the Kanakchur variety—as unparalleled in taste. This exceptional quality can be to the Kanakchur rice, as a unique variety that retains its sweet aroma even when popped on very high heat. This aromatic popped rice or ‘khoi’ when mixed with the season’s best date palm Jaggery in winter, creates a magical treat known as ‘Joynagarer moa.’ This delicacy, made in a small village in South 24 Parganas, West Bengal, earned a Geographical Indication tag in 2012.
Later, it appeared in Bengal’s renowned religious text, the ‘Kamalammangal,’ written by poet Krishnaram Das in the latter half of the 17th century. In his poetic vision, he depicted Goddess Kamala, or Lakshmi (the goddess of rice), adorned with various folk rice grains, and selected the golden grains of Kanakchur to create her ‘pasuli’ (an ornament for her foot).
‘তবে ত কনকচূড় পরিলেন পাসুলি
নূপুর গরুড় ধান্য সীতাভোগগুলি’
“She wore a foot ornament made from Kanakchur grains, and her anklet was crafted from Garuda and Sitabhog rice.”
Hunter’s 1876 Statistical Account of Bengal (pp. 208-9) records Kanakchur as one among 63 different rice “specimens” sent from Bogra district in 1873 to the London and Vienna exhibitions!
Yet, kanakchur is a prime example of how cultural and culinary heritage can be lost with the disappearance of traditional rice strains. ‘Jaynagarer moa,’ a sweet treat made exclusively in winter in the small village of Jaynagar in South 24 Parganas, West Bengal, owes its distinctive taste and aroma to Kanakchur rice. However, after the 1960s, farmers began replacing this low-yielding variety with high-yielding modern strains, leading to the near extinction of Kanakchur rice. Additionally, dishonest traders started using cheap synthetic aromas to mimic the unique fragrance of this precious grain, causing the sweet to lose its original charm.
Fortunately, a few farmers continued to grow Kanakchur rice in small quantities for personal use, preserving the grain. In 1997, the rice conservator Debal Deb distributed these seeds to several farmers, reviving the Kanakchur strain and preserving the beloved sweet, which continues to be a cherished ‘taste of winter’ for many Bengalis.
NUTRITIONAL AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES
- Kanakchur is a varietal which is valued primarily for its aroma (which it retains even after high-temperature puffing) and cooking quality.
CULINARY USES
- Kanakchur is always consumed in raw and polished form.
- It is specifically grown for its aromatic popped rice, or ‘khoi.’ Bengal has traditionally cultivated various rice strains tailored to their specific uses. Some varieties were ideal for making chire (beaten rice), some yielded perfectly crisp muri (puffed rice), while others excelled as table rice. Even cooks relied on specific strains of rice for different rice-based preparations. To ensure this, farmers grew a range of strains to meet all their specific needs.
- Various ‘khoi’ based sweet treats like ‘khoier Murki’ ‘upra’, and ‘khoier naru (laddoo)’ are prepared as an offering during ‘Kojagori Lakshmi Puja’ (worshipping Goddess Lakshmi on the full moon night of Bengali month of Ashwin).
- Given the region’s preference for parboiled rice, fine aromatic varieties like Kanakchur were typically reserved for religious offerings and celebratory meals.
- Kanakchur is also excellent for making kheer, aromatic pulaos, and khichris.
- Its distinctive aroma and tendency to disintegrate easily even after cooling down to room temperature make it an ideal choice for congee or Phyanabhat (rice cooked with extra water).
- This rice cooks very quickly and the cooked rice is a little sticky in nature. A better texture (separate grain) is achieved by following the absorption or straining method.
WHO GROWS THIS RICE & WHERE CAN I BUY?
The sources that will likely have the best Kanakchur:
- Dhenki: Crowd funded social welfare enterprise, Kolkata: 8240379055 – PUT BENGAL-based sources FIRST, then only others
- Other Possible Sources
SOURCES & FURTHER READING
- Hunter, W.W. 1876. A Statistical Account of Bengal, vol. VIII/Districts of Rajashahi and Bogra. London: Trubner & Co.
- Sarker, Aparna, Roy, Subhas. “Morpho-Physiological Phenotyping of Fifteen Farmers Rice Varieties and Assessment of Grain Quality,” Current Agriculture Research Journal; 10.12944/CARJ.11.1.08
