/  August 20, 2024

Kullan Thondi

by Deepa Reddy

Kullan Thondi, sometimes just called “Thondi” or Wayanadan thondi is a well-known folk rice varietal from Wayanad, Kerala. The word “kullan” means a ‘short person’ and it is apt for this rice as the height of the plant is shorter than most heirloom rice verities. It therefore is less prone to lodging or falling over when the rice ripens. Typically, this rice is milled to retain 60% of the bran and rarely polished, leaving it with distinctive red streaks on an otherwise white grain. Thondi is also typically sold parboiled, a robust matta rice.

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Description

THE CULTURAL & ECOLOGICAL LIFE OF THIS RICE

Kullan Thondi is perhaps the most famous of all Kerala thondis (thunuran thondi, kakka thondi, mara thondi, pal thondi), preferred for cultivation even before Gandakasala and Jeerakasala (Mathew 2008: 23), and is grown in Wayanad district. It is a long duration crop that takes 150 -160 days to ripen, grown in the Nanja season (June-December). The word “kullan” means a short person and it is apt for this rice as the height of the plant is shorter than most of the heirloom rice verities. Typically, this rice is milled to retain 60% of the bran and rarely polished.

Gopi and Manjula report that tribal farmers in Wayanad cultivate thondi by Valicha Krishi or the “valicha” method of direct sowing used with longer duration and tough, pest-resistant and resilient rice varieties that can withstand waterlogged conditions for long periods, 7-11 months. Even if the rice stalks break, the plant grows new tillers and can survive under adverse conditions.

Here is a description of the method: “seeds are directly sown … When the crop is about 5-6 months old, cattle are left to graze on the field and then a traditional field levelling implement, Pakka, driven by cattle is run on the field. The rice plants along with all the weeds are trampled into mud. While weeds get decayed, the trampled rice plants regenerate because of profuse tillering* capability of long duration traditional rice varieties cultivated under this method. Each node produces at least 5-6 tillers to re-establish a good crop stand. This method is considered more profitable, as they never require weeding” (Gopi and Manjula 2018: 1000, also see Mathew 2008: 29).

Valicha Krishi “was widespread in earlier times owing to large landholding and reduced workload. Presently, it is done only in remote pockets in waterlogged/marshy fields that are unsuitable for other cultivation” (Kumar and Smitha 2015). We learned from Rajiv Krishnan that most farmers in the area use the transplanting method, because of water but also labor availability, and because transplanting produces better yields. With the transformation of land systems, agricultural methods also correspondingly adapt.

Thondi having once been a “valicha vittu” grain may explain its robustness, to this day.

Note 1: “valicha vittu” refers to this method of cultivation but also becomes the name of rice cultivated using this method, notably Chettuveliyan and possibly also the traditional rice called Valicha.

Note 2: Rice cultivation is of enormous significance to local tribal populations, who believe that rice “keeps the body and soul together and that it is therefore the sole reason for their existence. They pray, evoke, respect, and acknowledge their gods and ancestors at all stages of paddy cultivation. In this way, they believe they are protecting, preserving, and developing the varieties of rice while fulfilling the role of guardians of the rich biodiversity of this region” (Varghese and Natori 2024: 4)

NUTRITIONAL AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES

  • The grain of a tough, resilient plant, thondi is stout and plump–a bold grain that fills you up quickly and provides energy for a long duration.
  • It is fibre-rich, thanks in part to the typical semi-polished way in which this rice is sold and consumed.

CULINARY USES

  • Typically consumed parboiled and semi-polished.
  • Among tribal farmers, a typical noon-meal rice choice.
  • It is a good table rice and has an earthy fragrance when cooked. A versatile rice that adapts to many recipes such as kuzhambu, sambar and even flavoured rice varieties.
  • The grains remain plump and distinct — almost like small pasta grains.

WHO GROWS THIS RICE & WHERE CAN I BUY?

The sources that will likely have the best Kullan Thondi:

  1. Thirunelly Agri Producer Company/ Tapco [a farmer producer organization in Wayanad, Kerala]
  2. Other Possible Sources

SOURCES & FURTHER READING

Additional information

Region of Origin

South
Grain Shape

medium
Grain Colour

Red
Fragrance

Nonscented

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